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  • Angus and his Nightmayer

    During a spell of fine weather in May '17, HS ambassador Angus Kille made the 4th heroic ascent, since Mayers & Lovich first climbed the route in 1992, of NIGHTMAYER E8+ 6c  on Dinas Cromlech, North Wales.  Reputed as one of the hardest run out trad routes, anywhere, this is a climb that demands a total fusion of many rarely aligned factors for success, hence it's low head count of successful applicants. Not just perfect weather, totally dry rock, and a new'ish rope all help, but a climber's skill level at the top of the game, and being psychologically prepared for a potential decking  !   After an unnerving fall on his Angus's first attempt this was a stunning achievement and yet another imposing example of his continuing exceptional form, and commitment. Well done Angus.

    The following is a short account by Angus, it's highly recommended you also read the following link to get a flavour of the seriousness of this climb written by Nick Bullock on UKC it concludes with Angus's ascent.

    Thanks to Robin Mazinke & Jez Brown for contributed photos.

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    “ Nightmayer has been at the top of my list all year, it takes a direct line through the classic ‘Lord of the Flies’ on one of my favourite British crags, Dinas Cromlech. The route has a minimalist feel as the holds are so thin and protection is available only when you need it most. After a long, poorly protected first half, sparse but good gear protects a long and thin crux sequence to the top. With its length, boldness and technical difficulty, this route really demands a lot from the leader and deserves its unforgiving reputation.

    On my first lead attempt I fell from the crux, unable to continue the precise sequence after being shaken by the wind and the lonely run-out. I was up at the Cromlech on my own two days later, retrieving some kit I had stashed there while practising the route, when I bumped into Nick Bullock and Mick Lovatt. They were keen to see me on the route and it would be my last chance to go for the lead before the weather broke, so they offered me a belay, a rack and some friendly encouragement. I hadn’t expected to try the route that day, thinking I had missed my window of good weather, but decided to take the chance and give it a go. Leading on an unfamiliar rack made for an unexpectedly sketchy first half, but after a shake-out on the girdle ledge I continued desperately through the long crux sequence to reach the top. It was an unforgettable lead and made all the better for being such a close one. 

    I didn’t know falling off would end up being such a positive experience. Without pushing through every move near the top where I felt I was falling off is what makes it worthwhile, the uncertainty is what makes the climbing experience such good value “.

    ARTICLE: Nick Bullock's Nightmayer

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  • HS Winning Ambassadors

    We’re very proud to report on a succession of wins by High Sports Ambassadors who have been busy competing this winter.

    Our two HS fell running ambassadors; MEL PRICE finished 1st Lady in the Shropshire Hills Fell Race Winter Series (7 races) which also put her in an amazing 10th place overall out of 595 competitors, this follows a list of her equally stunning performances from 2016 including a third successive win at the Long Mynd Hike where she still holds the ladies record. And SAM ROBSON, in his first winter series came 10th overall, at one stage he was leading the series but a snowboarding injury put him out of the last two races.

    Also back in the depths of winter two of our HS climbing ambassadors pulled off first place at the Board Room “Lights Out” indoor bouldering competition; TOM FENWICK taking the overall adult comp and a large cheque, and CHRIS NOVELLI the first Junior competition and a large box of chocs.

    Congratulations & well done guys. Never stop pushing !LM HIKE 2016 MEL PRICE text (625 x 678)

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    Tom Fenwick 1st place senior place above Chris Novelli 1st Junior below
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  • Rockfall at Grinshill, Shropshire

     

    A substantial rockfall centred on the cave area below Ass Creek (Corbett Woods car park area, Grinshill, Shropshire) has created a number of huge boulders completely obliterating what was a long-standing unfinished cave boulder problem. The good news, could these be Shropshire’s very first actual boulder problems? Form a queue. Whatever the cause; earth tremors, high volumes of winter rain, illegal fires lit in the cave... no one was thankfully hurt but as always be vigilant and maybe avoid cave climbing.

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  • Nesscliffe Rockfall

    NESSCLIFFE ROCKFALL
    We been getting a few messages of a major rockfall right of Kynaston's Cave at Nesscliffe, so I paid a visit. A few printer sized boulders have peeled off from near the top of the crag, but hardly a major rockfall. It's difficult to establish whether it's natural or something to do with a recent County Council crag inspection which took place on 18th April (notice displayed on gates). However climbing isn't really compromised but it is worth avoiding or adopting a common sense tip approach "stay alert" if feel you can't delay venting your bouldering addiction in the Cave area. Bit like climbing in The Alps !

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  • Climbing prohibited on East Buttress, Pontesford Rocks

    Climbing on the East Buttress of Pontesford Rocks is currently prohibited as order of the Shropshire Wildlife Trust due to nesting Peregrines.
    Peregrines typically nest to as late as the start of August, please be considerate when in the area.

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