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  • Angus and his Nightmayer

    During a spell of fine weather in May '17, HS ambassador Angus Kille made the 4th heroic ascent, since Mayers & Lovich first climbed the route in 1992, of NIGHTMAYER E8+ 6c  on Dinas Cromlech, North Wales.  Reputed as one of the hardest run out trad routes, anywhere, this is a climb that demands a total fusion of many rarely aligned factors for success, hence it's low head count of successful applicants. Not just perfect weather, totally dry rock, and a new'ish rope all help, but a climber's skill level at the top of the game, and being psychologically prepared for a potential decking  !   After an unnerving fall on his Angus's first attempt this was a stunning achievement and yet another imposing example of his continuing exceptional form, and commitment. Well done Angus.

    The following is a short account by Angus, it's highly recommended you also read the following link to get a flavour of the seriousness of this climb written by Nick Bullock on UKC it concludes with Angus's ascent.

    Thanks to Robin Mazinke & Jez Brown for contributed photos.

    P5081227 (450 x 600)

    “ Nightmayer has been at the top of my list all year, it takes a direct line through the classic ‘Lord of the Flies’ on one of my favourite British crags, Dinas Cromlech. The route has a minimalist feel as the holds are so thin and protection is available only when you need it most. After a long, poorly protected first half, sparse but good gear protects a long and thin crux sequence to the top. With its length, boldness and technical difficulty, this route really demands a lot from the leader and deserves its unforgiving reputation.

    On my first lead attempt I fell from the crux, unable to continue the precise sequence after being shaken by the wind and the lonely run-out. I was up at the Cromlech on my own two days later, retrieving some kit I had stashed there while practising the route, when I bumped into Nick Bullock and Mick Lovatt. They were keen to see me on the route and it would be my last chance to go for the lead before the weather broke, so they offered me a belay, a rack and some friendly encouragement. I hadn’t expected to try the route that day, thinking I had missed my window of good weather, but decided to take the chance and give it a go. Leading on an unfamiliar rack made for an unexpectedly sketchy first half, but after a shake-out on the girdle ledge I continued desperately through the long crux sequence to reach the top. It was an unforgettable lead and made all the better for being such a close one. 

    I didn’t know falling off would end up being such a positive experience. Without pushing through every move near the top where I felt I was falling off is what makes it worthwhile, the uncertainty is what makes the climbing experience such good value “.

    ARTICLE: Nick Bullock's Nightmayer

    P5081236 (450 x 600) P5081233 (450 x 600) 18449783_10156086419907802_1626498427_n (450 x 600)

  • LUCI Light best product 2017

    LUCI Outdoor Light. After many years in the outdoor trade it’s not often I get impressed by new products, cynical about reinventing the wheel, but the LUCI Outdoor Solar light easily romped into my ‘must have’ BEST PRODUCT 2017.
    I admit I was semi reluctant to include a LUCI light on a recent two week lightweight cycle camping and exploring trip around some of the Scottish Hebridean islands, always keenly scrutinising items on the packing list their worth “If it’s not potentially going to be used every day it’s not going”. The 125grm Luci light was indispensable; used and loved using it every day. Strapped to the panniers it remained on constant charge, costing nothing to run (no batteries). At night it’s super bright 4 setting lights were so impressive the low setting was more than adequate, never failing on power (lasts up to 18 hours) whether cooking, reading, setting up camp or just walking back from the pub..... totally waterproof and massively versatile !
    But the Luci light isn’t just an invaluable addition for adventures, it’s saving on battery landfill and gets a big thumbs up as a leading light in 3rd world NGO partnership projects through its purchase and use. Make sense and Get LUCI !
    IMG_2217 (1204 x 903)

    IMG_2429 (1204 x 903) IMG_2423 (903 x 1204)

  • Rodney's Pillar 2017 Fell Race

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    The Rodney's Pillar Race is a 6.3km fell race with 290m of ascent. It starts from Criggion Village Hall and is organised by Shrewsbury AC.

     

    (If your type of computer does not support Adobe Flash then please click here to view the photos in our Flickr album for this race.)

  • Wrekin Streak 2017 Fell Race

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    The Wrekin Streak is a 4.5km fell race taking place on the main NE track up and down the Wrekin with a total ascent of 247m.

     

    (If your type of computer does not support Adobe Flash then please click here to view the photos in our Flickr album for this race.)

  • Caradoc Classic 2017 Fell Race

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    The first race this time in the 2017 summer series; the Caradoc Classic. The race's route is 5.6km in length with 268 metres of ascent.

     

    (If your type of computer does not support Adobe Flash then please click here to view the photos in our Flickr album for this race.)

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