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  • Double 'Tombola' Winners

    For most of us, this summer has been a pain. Yet not distracted the young 'Local Lads' have dodged the showers determined to keep up their relentless pressure at climbing ever high grade routes. Most noteable has to be Finn McCann's lead ascent of Tombola E7 6c at Nesscliffe on 12/09/07 with Ed Booth seconding only to return himself on the 14th to lead it as well, double winners. An unprecedented dry start to summer during April had us all heading for the mountain crags; 17 year old Simon Cathcart led the bold and very thin arete route Ressurrection/Erection E3 5c on Llechog, North Wales, Finn blitzed the Regular Route on Half Dome during his first visit to Yosemite (see home page pic of his trademark horizontal handstand in serious locations) whilst Ed faced upto the lure of Right Wall and Climb High and recently zapped all five of the Dinbren E3 trad classics at Llangollen in one afternoon, stunning performances all round. However most significantly these young 'Local Lads' (all under 21) aren't stamping their mark on the latest hot number sport route but repeating with style very serious Trad routes, is this a sign of the future 'Sport is finally loosing its shallow attraction, it's time to give it back to the French!

    Whatever well done all the 'Local Lads and Lasses', keep the pressure on and send us your successes at whatever level!

     

    Email from Ed Booth; Hi Stuart, just a quick update. I went along with Finn McCann to Nesscliffe where he sent the E7 6c Tombola, the corner left of My Piano. I top roped it after him and suprised myself by flashing it first go on a top rope( I tried it last year 3 times and couldn't do the moves), so I went back and this time Finn held my ropes and I made the 6th or 7th repeat. The first good gear is in the break at 2/3rds height with one precarious move to reach it, then some hideously technical cranking and bridging up the bald corner gain a peg, and a mono, and tiny two finger slot from where the crux sequence starts. I used a different technique to everybody else, by laybacking off a poor slopey crimp as opposed to bridging up on nothing. I found it about as dangerous as 10 o'clock Saturday Morning (the E7 6c face climb on the wall to the left) but just as hard, perhaps in a different way. Its not pumpy, just really techy. An absolutely awesome route!

     

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